Sapate Ako

Today was Education Sunday in Tonga (Sapate Ako). The youth choir, which I have just recently joined, sang a few songs and some children shared scripture readings. There was also a special sermon, intended to get the children enthusiastic about the upcoming school year but even more importantly, it was to encourage them to go to school. This part of the message was just as much for the parents as it was for their children. You see, many kids do not attend school regularly and there are those that have never gone to school because they are busy working in the bush with their fathers or weaving/doing housework with their mothers. Fortunately, children staying home to work is not common where I now live however, this was true for many children in Ha'apai, where I lived for two months before getting to site. My little brother and older sister where never in school but there would come the rare occasion when I would see them in their school uniform. It was, at the time, final exams and the kids were awaiting school break so I figured I was misunderstanding when they had exams or if they had already completed the school year. However, my instincts were correct, in that, for the most part, they were skipping school. My older sister, Laveni, did a lot of the housework while my host-mom did her weaving and my brother went to the uta (the bush) with my host-dad. He is five years old.

With that said, I was relieved to learn about 'Education Sunday,' and the message that it brings to the Tongan people. My neighbor and counterpart, Foulata, was speaking on the behalf of our school, at a village a twenty or so minute car ride away. She asked me to go with her so that she could introduce me as one of the new teachers at the school, Mailefihi College. I agreed as for one, I really enjoy spending time with Foulata and two, I knew she would appreciate my support. In addition, I LOVE the village that we were going to, Lea matu'a. The people there are incredibly friendly.

Before the service I was a doua which, if I have not mentioned it before, is the woman who serves kava to a circle of men at community events/churches/weddings/parties, etc. really, whenever they want kava, men drink kava. Most Tongan men drink it every day here and it is a real treat to have a doua. For most woman this is more like a 'coming out' if you will and typically, the man sitting to her left would be her 'date'. In the past, most marriages were arranged at these kava circles but for now, they just enjoyed having me (a palangi) there. To clarify for just a moment, kava is a type of plant which when mixed with water makes a Tongan drink that serves as a relaxant and gives a high much like the equivalent of marijuana. Most female Peace Corps volunteers find it very beneficial to be a doua at least once during their time in Tonga because it gives them an opportunity to meet the men in their community. Otherwise, they really do not have much opportunity to do so as male and female interaction is not like it is in the states. I have found that being a doua before or after church is the best time as conversation is kept appropriate (because it's Sunday), and you are surrounded by some of the most respected men in the community, including the faifakau (the church minister).

Sorry for the long tangent but it occurred to me that I might not have mentioned kava before and it is a very important element of the Tongan culture.

So after the kava circle, we went to church and after listening intently to my counterpart, trying to understand as much of her Tongan as I could, I was surprised to interpret that she wanted me to come up and introduce myself in front of the congregation as one of the new teachers, and to explain my upcoming duties and responsibilities at Mailefihi College. In Tongan, mind you. Which, I don't mean to brag, but my Tongan is rather good. Though my ego was crushed when I mistakingly said to everyone, “Give me children” instead of, “bring your children...” Everyone started laughing and out of ignorance I began to laugh as well. It wasn't until after I had returned to my pew, and was reviewing my speech in my head, when I realized my mistake. I felt ridiculous but was not longly wounded. You have to just laugh when such things happen. That's why I love language barriers. There are always more smiles and laughter in the beginning than there are words!

After, I went back to doua again as the men drink kava following church as well. I was showered with flower necklaces made from the women in the village and was presented with a taovala, which is a woven grass skirt. It it the most respectful piece of 'clothing' that a Tongan can wear and while I have been borrowing my neighbors, I had not yet had my own until now. It takes a Tongan woman at least six months to weave one of these and it was given to me all to express their gratitude of having me teach their children for the next couple of years. What astounds me is that my presence to their village was not known before my arrival yet when I got there, I was treated like a princess and it was as if they had been planning my visit for weeks. I was so grateful and am anxious to return to that village.

I look forward to when I start 'planning week' with my Tongan staff. I have only met a few but supposedly they are putting on a big feast for my 'Welcoming Party.' In Tonga, you should not expect anything less. These people are always ready to feast and host parties where they can sing, dance, and most importantly, LAUGH!

Hope you all are having a wonderful day and ask yourself, 'How many times did I laugh today?”

'Ofa atu!
Ashley